September 14, 2007
By KAREN PERSSON for The Columbian

The casual dining menu at Vinotopia in Vancouver includes Dungeness crab with mango, avocado, asparagus, hearts of palm and toasted pine nut vinaigrette for $16.95. Photo by Janet L. Mathews of The Columbian

Where we ate this week: Vinotopia

Why: Vinotopia, the restaurant at the elaborate Cinetopia movie complex, has a lot to offer. A "wine novel" (referred to for its size) that lists 600 first-rate wines, which may be sampled an ounce at a time for a fraction of the cost of a bottle. On Friday and Saturday nights there's live piano music in the dining room. Planning on dinner and a movie? Those 21 and older may order from the restaurant's menu and have it delivered pre-show in the Living Room Theater.

Atmosphere: Dark velvet drapes, original works of art, subtly designed dark carpet and iridescent hanging lamps add to a classy environment. A wine-tasting cellar and conversation pit define the restaurant's perimeter inside. Outdoors, a garden complete with a water feature and a fountain-style fire pit create an ambiance of romance. Tall grasses and crepe myrtles create a private alcove for each table.

Second time's a charm: I found the service to be a bit sluggish and some of the food less than outstanding on my first visit months ago. On a recent visit, the service was highly attentive and the food was exceptional. Menu items are an unusual collection of dishes designed by Executive Chef Alan Lake. Since my first visit, Cinetopia owner and wine enthusiast Rudyard Coltman hired sous chef Nammon Archer to prepare food and run the kitchen day-to-day, and the difference is remarkable.

The food: The grilled artichoke is served with a tangy lemon-pepper dipping sauce - a perfect example of "opposites attract." The artichoke's smooth flavor is enhanced by a tangy boost from the sauce. The bacon-wrapped stuffed shrimp is equally impressive. The deveined shrimp is baked until firm, not tough. The Oriental dipping sauce adds a hint of spicy sweet. I tried the roasted halibut entrée and found every element wonderful from the fin herbes salad, which was fresh and sweet, to the pyramid of tomato cous cous that complemented the crosscut caramelized cauliflower and expertly prepared roasted halibut that's neither slimy nor dry. If you like dark chocolate truffles, try the chocolate ganache torte for dessert. It's a lavish treat of rich smooth chocolate. The chocolate lava cake is another chocolate lover's dream.

More on vino: For $30, patrons can reserve a spot at a two-hour wine-tasting class headed by Coltman. Coltman uses a high-tech Italian Enomatic serving system that keeps opened bottles fresh for as long as 45 days through an antioxidation process. Wine may be tasted by the ounce (three or four sips), glass or bottle. A high-end Chateau Haut Brion, for example, costs $29 an ounce, $145 a glass, $725 a bottle. At the low end, a Remy Penier d' Anjou is $1 an ounce, $5 by the glass and $20 per bottle.

Best time to go: At sunset, sunlight filters through colored glass blocks on the west side of the building. They look like giant cut gemstones casting rays of colors into the restaurant. Or, if the temperature is ideal, I recommend the patio.

A quick take: Classy. Fresh ingredients. Innovative food. Preparation and presentation is top-notch. Service is friendly, courteous and knowledgeable and, I'm pleased to report now, after my second visit, very attentive.

Cost: Appetizers start at $6.95 for the Bruschetta Trio to $15.95 for the Queso Slate (assortment of cheeses). Entrees range from $10.95 to $32.95. Soup is $4.50. Dessert is $7.50.

Where: 11700 S.E. Seventh St., Vancouver.

Hours: Noon to 10:30 p.m. daily.

Happy hours: 3 to 6 p.m. and 8 to 10 p.m. Mondays through Sundays.

Contact: 360-213-2800 or 877-608-2800, cinetopiatheaters.com .

Health score: Vinotopia received a score of 10 on June 27. Zero is a perfect score, and the Clark County Public Health Department closes restaurants that score 100 or higher. For information, call 360-397-8428.