June 1, 2007
by Karen Persson for The Columbian

Forest mushroom stuffed milk-fed Provimi veal chop, apple spatzle, celery root pure, stone fruit chutney and amaretto huckleberry demiglace. JANET L. MATHEWS/The Columbian

Why: Morris Fenton, owner and chef at Vesta, has taken care to assemble a fine cadre of experts to work with him. He has created an environment of elegance without losing that casual quality we Pacific Northwesterners are known for. From the décor to the menu, class and casual are combined in simple aesthetics, excellent ingredients and superior flavors to produce an exceptional dining experience.

What I tried: I considered one of the prix fixe dinners before I noticed the pheasant on the menu. The mache lettuce salad came beautifully wrapped in a strip of English cucumber. The mache (also called lamb's lettuce, which is high in vitamin C and B9) is combined with Silver Falls goat cheese, Grand Marnier macerated berries and roasted hazelnuts with a Pinot Grigio vinaigrette. This salad is served at room temperature, which allows the flavors to exude their distinct characteristics. Accompanying the pheasant: savory brioche pudding, charred Brussels sprout leaves, rose hip butter and Kennebec potato game chips (referred to as "game" because they're served with pheasant). The brioche pudding includes bits of pheasant and has a firm texture. It's moist without being underbaked, and the savory herb punctuates the pudding with its distinctive flavor. If you're not one for Brussels sprouts, don't overlook this pheasant dish on account of them. These sprouts will redefine their typical strong cabbage flavor on your palate with a delicate charred presentation of separated leaves tossed in a light and salty oil. The pheasant is moist, while a dip in the rose hip butter brings out its delicious, almost sweet flavor that is enhanced by the Calvados (apple brandy) demiglace. The chips add a bit of crisp to this wonderful dish, and the flavor of this potato matches the sophistication of the rest of the plate.

Divine dessert: The blackberry frangipane tart is, like everything else, a five-star presentation, perfectly executed with care given to each individual component. The tart is warm, topped with a dollop of cream and bits of almond brittle. It's fresh-from-the-vine sweet, without loads of sugar. To accompany, a petite scoop of cinnamon ice cream and orange sauce creates a delightful dessert that is light instead of rich.

The unexpected: A pre-meal appetizer (changes daily) is served to each guest soon after being seated, and a pineapple sorbet comes between courses to cleanse the palate. Fresh bread, made in-house, accompanies the meal. The evening I was there, the butter on the side was a creamy honey vanilla. Maitre fromager Nathan Poppelreiter visits each table with his refined knowledge of cheese and polished delivery to suggest some of the best cheeses available.

Atmosphere: The open ceiling displays beautiful wood trusses. Tables below are elegantly dressed in fine white linen, set with gleaming silverware and spotless wine goblets. At the far end, opposite the restaurant entrance, a river-rock hearth gives a hint of "cozy." Next to this, the bar wraps around from the restaurant and into the lounge, which has its own entrance. An open kitchen teaming with activity is directly beyond the hostesses' desk. Walls of soothing charcoal and earth-tone colors cleverly display wines on the shelves of built-in wall cases. Vesta has a welcoming ambiance, with an apt amount of sophistication.

A quick take: Spotless. The pace of the meal goes unnoticed. A flawless dining experience incorporating unique food presented exquisitely with superlative service.

Be sure to try: If you like cheese, Mr. Poppelreiter's recommendations won't disappoint you.

Cost: Lunch is $5 to $14. Dinner appetizers are $7 to $12, soups are $6 to $8 and main plates are $17 to $36. Or, depending on the day and your choice, you may have one of their dinner prix fixe meals, which consists of four courses, for $24 to $49. Desserts will cost $4 to $8. Wine by the glass is $7 to $10.

Lunch hours: 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Mondays through Fridays, noon to 2:30 p.m. on Sundays.

Dinner hours: 5 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. Sundays through Saturdays.

Wine bar hours: 4 p.m. to midnight Sundays through Saturdays.

Where: 14387 S.W. Mill Plain Blvd., Vancouver.

Contact: 360-260-4388, vestarestaurant.net