August 3, 2007
by Karen Persson of The Columbian

Lamb shanks are marinated for 24 hours and served with a side of orzo and fresh vegetables. The appetizer plate in front includes humus, tomatoes and fresh olives. BEN CAMPBELL/The Columbian

Why: Olive oil, lemon, feta cheese, pita bread and lamb are a few of the ingredients that characterize Greek cuisine. My search for authentic fare led me to The Touch of Athens in the historic Hidden House. Online reviews say the restaurant has "the best hummus in town."

The house: The Queen Anne-style house, built by Lowell Hidden in 1885, served as the original home of Clark College from 1933 to 1937. In 1978, the Hidden House was added to the National Register of Historic Places. And, in 2004, the building became host to The Touch of Athens.

Atmosphere: It seemed almost everyone who came for dinner knew proprietor George Vlachos, which reminded me of the movie "My Big Fat Greek Wedding." I felt like I was a welcome guest, as long as I didn't mind the chipped plates, crooked candles, less-than-sparkling bathrooms and dusty shutters.

The night I visited, an accordionist played. I left as a belly dancer began her show. (She performs Fridays and Saturdays.)

The food: The hummus is creamy and mild. As for it being "the best," I prefer more seasoning. But it's an excellent dip for sticks of feta cheese and fresh pita bread.

My favorite part of dinner was the Greek salad - fresh romaine lettuce, cucumbers, tomatoes, onions and feta cheese tossed in an oil-and-vinegar dressing.

At the owner's suggestion, I tried bougatsa, a dessert made of phyllo filled with custard. Reminiscent of rice pudding, the bougatsa arrived hot out of the oven and sprinkled with powdered sugar. I found it to be a delightful end to the meal.

Quick take: Authentic, with fair prices, hot food and friendly and attentive service.

Cost: Appetizers are $5.95 for spanakopita (spinach and feta pie) to $37.95 for an appetizer platter for six. Salads come in small and large portions for $6.95 to $10.95. Most entrees cost $10.95 to $18.95. A Friday and Saturday special of leg of lamb is $17.95 (served with Greek salad or soup, lemon potatoes, orzo, vegetables and pita).

Hours: 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday through Friday for lunch. Dinner is served 5 to 9 p.m. Monday through Thursday, and 5 to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

Where: 100 W. 13th St., Vancouver.

Contact: 360-695-6198, or visit wa.local.yahoo.biz/touchofathens , but take note that the Web site listed out-of-date prices as of our printing deadline on Wednesday.