November 30, 2007
by Mike Bailey of The Columbian

Hawaiian sea salt is one of the ingredients that distinguish the Kalua Pork in the nachos and quesadillas at Tommy O’s Pacific Rim Bistro. Pork dishes and Coconut Crispy Shrimp are among the most frequently requested items during Aloha Hour in the restaurant’s lounge.. (ZACHARY KAUFMAN/The Columbian)

Why: Tommy Owens’ goal six months ago was to add casual elegance to the downtown Vancouver dining scene when he expanded Tommy O’s Pacific Rim Bistro to include a lounge with a bar and seating for 75. Part of that expansion included an Aloha Hour, Owens’ version of a happy hour, that has a selection of discounted appetizers and drink specials that reflect the owner’s Hawaiian heritage. Most of the lounge offerings are mini versions of dishes found on the restaurant’s menu, such as the Kalua Pork Quesadilla, Calamari Steak and Coconut Crispy Shrimp, and all are priced at $3.95 or less.

The food: There are 12 items on the Aloha Hour menu and most are variations of recipes straight from Hawaii. During a recent visit, my group tried the Kalua Pork Nachos, Coconut Crunchy Shrimp, Kalua Pork Quesadilla and the fish cakes. The quesadilla and nachos are like no other appetizers I have tried. Both feature pulled pork that is lean and mildly spiced. The pork is prepared with Owens’ own recipe. In an average month, Owens sells about 2,000 pounds of pork in the lounge and the restaurant next door. The nachos include the standard chips, black bean sauce, cheddar cheese, sour cream, guacamole, olives and jalapeño peppers, but the Hawaiian spin on the pork gives this appetizer a slightly sweet taste. The quesadilla is yet another variation on a Mexican dish. It has grilled sweet onions and cheddar cheese wrapped with the meat. As with most appetizers, the servings are smaller than an entree version, so if you’re looking to make a meal out of the Aloha Hour offerings, you may need to order several items. My group ordered seconds of the nachos, quesadilla and shrimp, and even considered a third order.

The shrimp, which come three to a serving and are paired with plum dipping sauce, live up to the name with a coconut flavoring in the light, crunchy tempura and panko breading. The fish cakes — made with salmon and halibut and served with a raspberry chili sauce — had a slightly overwhelming fishy aftertaste that evening, but the cakes had little filler, were flaky and were crisply cooked.

Ask the bartender: The lounge offers classic drinks as well as specials that make you wish you were sitting on a beach tickling your toes in the sand. During Aloha Hour, the mango margaritas and mai tais are $4.50, instead of the regular menu price of $7. The mango purée in the margarita, in a glass with a sugared rim, delivers a sweet punch. Orange Curacao combined with two brands of rum, pineapple and orange juices and a splash of grenadine make the mai tais. The house wines are $3.50 a glass and draft beer is $3.75. But don’t forget to ask about the bartender specials. Each night a special concoction is blended by bartenders Joshua Owens and Lisa Carlson. All have a tropical element with prices varying based on the ingredients.

Cost: Aloha Hour menu items range from $1.95 for crispy fries to $3.95 for the Kalua Pork Nachos, Kal-bi Beef Ribs (the most popular item on the menu), Coconut Crunchy Shrimp or Bloody Mary Shrimp Skewer. A small Caesar salad is $2.25 and five other dishes, including popular choices Calamari Steak, Beef Satay and the Kalua Pork Quesadilla, are $2.95.

Atmosphere: Tropical art hangs from almost every wall, as well as surfboards, each with its own story to tell of having ridden the waves of Hawaii. Most are boards Owens used while living in Hawaii or were gifts he received. The lounge is a cozy addition to the restaurant and clearly is a haven for the Clark County business crowd on weekday afternoons. There’s live Hawaiian-style music on Friday and Saturday evenings. On busy nights there can be a wait for a table in the lounge, or the overflow crowd can choose to be served the same drink specials and appetizers in the restaurant.

Hours: Restaurant hours are 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. Mondays through Fridays, 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays. Aloha Hour is 4 to 6 p.m. daily and 9 p.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday.

Where: 801 Washington St., Vancouver.

Contact: 360-694-5107 or visit tommyosaloha.com.