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  restaurant reviews
Stardust Diner serves up taste of '50s

June 22, 2007
by Matt Wastradowski of The Columbian


The Blue Moon Burger, with a 10-ounce patty, American cheese and two strips of applewood-smoked bacon, is a popular lunch and dinner choice with Stardust Diner patrons, owner Bernard Koopmann says. A side of crispy, beerbattered fries can be substituted for the standard crinkle-cut fries for $1.49. The diner was built in Florida and shipped to Vancouver for setup, much like classic diners from the 1950s. (DAVE OLSON/The Columbian)

The prices may have changed, but the music, atmosphere spark nostalgia

Why: With its stainless steel exterior and traditional American menu, Stardust Diner evokes a time when a loaf of bread cost 18 cents and gas ran at less than a quarter per gallon.

These 1950s prices even appear on the menu. A timeline stripped across the top of each page lists 1950s prices for a variety of items along with fun facts from that decade. The menu adds to the restaurant's atmosphere, providing trivia that you can use to quiz dining companions before the food is served.

Stardust's current prices are higher than what meals cost in the 1950s, but everything else about the restaurant hearkens back to that era.

Decor: The diner, which opened in 2001 on the west side of Southeast 164th Avenue, looks like a stainless steel mobile home. Diners were designed that way in the 1950s as a way to attract passing motorists. Inside the Stardust, visitors can sit in spacious booths with plush blue seats or relax on stools in the bar area. The effect is complete with hits from the 1950s emanating from a jukebox, creating a lively soundtrack.

What I tried: Owner Bernard Koopmann says the Blue Moon Burger is a Stardust favorite. The patty is ground chuck, topped with two slices of melted American cheese and two strips of applewood-smoked bacon.

I ordered the burger with a side of beer-battered fries. Crinkle-cut fries are the standard side, but diners can opt to pair the burger with onion rings or beer-battered fries for an extra charge of $1.49.

Fans of crispy french fries should consider the upgrade to the beer-battered version.

With a 10-ounce patty and the usual fixings - tomatoes, lettuce, pickles and onions - the Blue Moon is a messy mouthful.

If you're on the hunt for an old-fashioned burger in east Vancouver, this is the spot to visit. Along with the Blue Moon Burger, there's the Ricky Ricardo Patty Melt, the Boop Bop BBQ Burger and the Harley Burger, just to name a few. The burgers pair up nicely with the Stardust's selection of milkshakes, which includes flavors such as butterscotch, blackberry, root beer and peanut butter.

Beyond burgers and shakes, Stardust offers a variety of American diner classics from steaks and meatloaf to sandwiches and salads. Breakfast items, including omelettes, chicken fried steak, pancakes and waffles, are served all day.

Where: 1110 S.E. 164th Ave., Vancouver, 360-882-0727.

Cost: Most salads cost $6.99 to $7.49.

Dinner entrees are $7.49 to $12.99, with a full rack of ribs running $19.99. Burgers cost $6.49 to $8.69.

Omelettes are $6.69 to $7.99. Specialities, including chicken fried steak and a breakfast burrito, cost $6.79 to $8.99.

Hours: 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sundays through Thursdays, 7 a.m. to 11 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays.


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