June 15, 2007
by Tricia Jones of The Columbian

Hearty helpings of St. Louis ribs with a side of chipotle coleslaw and a sweet potato scone. DAVE OLSON/The Columbian

Why: Nobody is going to pretend that the Smokehouse Cafe folks fire up their outdoor charcoal pits at 4 a.m. to start the what's-your-hurry cooking and basting process aficionados regard as true barbecue. Still, this spinoff franchise from Izzy's Pizza serves surprisingly toothsome entrees and side dishes. It should be noted that my Dixie credentials are one generation removed: My parents are Arkansas-born, but the south of my childhood was Southern California. Nonetheless, I visit the Little Rock area yearly, succumbing to all the dietary indulgences that keep Arkansans snake-belly low on the list of healthiest Americans. That heritage made me skeptical enough about Smokehouse to request the Wild Salmon Filet, hardly a Southern staple. My lunch partner opted for Carolina Pulled Pork. Each of us cleaned our plates. Our respective meat entrees were firm, not flabby, and we enjoyed dousing them in extra hickory sauce from the counter. The garlic mashed potatoes and gravy reminded me of something my Grandma Sharp would have whipped up - good consistency, nice kick to the gravy. The Hoppin' John rice probably isn't all that many notches above something out of a box. But it wasn't mushy, and its seasonings blended well with everything else on my plate. My few bites of my friend's pulled pork had me agreeing with his verdict that while diehards might quibble at its authenticity, this cafe delivers more than you'd expect from a fast-food restaurant.

Decor: Pleasantly nondescript. A television set - set at a low volume on the day we visited - arches over one corner, and lots of spirit-lifting light filters into this patch of the Vancouvercenter. The booths are more comfortable here than at many quick-hit spots.

You'll love it if: You can't decide what kind of culinary mood you're in. That's because, in addition to the barbecue entrees, Smokehouse Cafe offers salads, flatbreads with cheeses and veggies, and something called piadina, which is flatbread folded and filled with a well-rounded selection of ingredients.

Don't go if: You're a stickler for consistency. Our lunch marked the fourth time my friend had ordered the pulled pork, and it was a bit of a leap of faith on his part. He said he'd found it excessively greasy once before. He has yet to have another go at the Beef Tri-Tip, which he said tasted "just like any other piece of beef, with no rich barbecue flavor."

Be sure to try: The sweet potato scone, which is served with all lighter choices and hearty helpings.

Cost: Lighter entrees are $3.99 to $6.99; hearty helpings are $4.49 to $8.49. Side dishes are included; it costs 50 cents to substitute another side or salad. Add a side or salad for 99 cents. The sampler platter (three types of meats and sides) is $9.99. Salads and flatbreads are $4.99 each. Piadinas are $5.49 each.

Where: Vancouvercenter, 700 Washington St., Suite 103, Vancouver; Salmon Creek, 13307 N.E. Highway 99, Suite 99, Vancouver.

Contact: 360-693-7065 (Vancouvercenter); 360-573-2177 (Salmon Creek).

Hours: 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Saturday and Sunday.