August 10, 2007
by Christopher Luna of The Columbian

The Silver Dragon’s deluxe special includes, among other things, a sample of the restaurant’s pork fried rice, almond chicken subgum chow mein, fried shrimp and egg roll. The restaurant’s generous portions are among its strengths. (DAVE OLSON The Columbian)

Why: As a former New York resident, I am constantly searching for good Chinese food. Too often the Chinese food I have tried in Vancouver has been bland, or in some cases awful. So I am happy to report that the Silver Dragon serves fare that sometimes compares to the level of quality to which I am accustomed.

When I first try a new restaurant, I order one of my two favorites - lo mein or General Tso's chicken - as a kind of test. Unfortunately, some local Chinese restaurants don't serve lo mein at all. On one particularly dissatisfying occasion, I was served cold spaghetti noodles and barely cooked vegetables.

Fried chunks of General Tso's chicken are supposed to be crunchy, even though they're covered in a spicy brown sauce. Too often, restaurants serve soggy chunks.

Silver Dragon not only serves both of my favorite dishes, but they taste good enough that I am able to temporarily forget the food at home.

The General Tso's chicken is cooked well enough that the boneless meat is tender, and the sauce is savory and thick. Silver Dragon's filling lo mein combines thick noodles, vegetables and a choice of meat. If you have trouble deciding which meat you prefer, order the Silver Dragon lo mein, which features a generous combination of beef, chicken, shrimp and pork.

You'll love it if: You're looking for affordable Chinese food in portions large enough to share or save for lunch the next day. In some cases, individual take-out orders require more than one box.

Don't go if: You aren't a big fan of onions. Many dishes feature a lot of large chunks of onion.

Atmosphere: The restaurant is very dark, and looks as if it hasn't been redecorated in years.

You should know: Silver Dragon has a lounge for those who would like to have a drink or play video poker.

Cost: Lo mein costs between $5.95 (vegetable) and $7.95 (Silver Dragon Lo Mein, which features a combination of different meats). An order of General Tso's Chicken costs $7.95. Appetizers range from $3.65 for two egg rolls to $6.85 for a sampler plate that includes barbecue pork, egg roll and fried shrimp. Soups range from $1.05 for egg flower to $7.35 for wonton. Combination dinners range from $4.95 to $8.45. .

Hours: 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. daily.

Where: 3605 E. Fourth Plain Blvd., Vancouver.

Contact: 360-694-2212.