January 11, 2008
by Karen Persson of The Columbian

Spicy sesame chicken is a standout dish at Seres, an east Vancouver restaurant offering Chinese cuisine with dynamic flavors. (N. SCOTT TRIMBLE/The Columbian)

Why: Seres offers Chinese cuisine made from fresh, organic and local sourced ingredients. The energy-efficient kitchen and recycled-paper menus are two of the restaurant's earth-friendly touches.

Atmosphere: Modern, clutter-free Chinese decor combines light honey-colored and dark teak woods, stainless steel, and a splash of claret and ivory. Other than natural lighting through the many windows, chandeliers in transparent cylinders add a touch of warmth on a rainy day. Each table has a single stemless rose in water.

What I tried: My favorite vegetable entree was the dry sautéed string beans. Not overly blistered, they were firm without being stringy. Garlic followed the fresh bean flavor.

Of the meat entrees, my favorite was the spicy sesame chicken, although I didn't detect any spicy heat. The tender pieces of chicken, covered in a sweet slightly honey-flavored glaze, sat atop deep-fried rice noodles. A generous sprinkle of sesame seeds gave the dish a nutty essence. As the chicken cooled, its glaze hardened, making it difficult to scoop out of the serving dish - a small inconvenience compared to the payoff.

The battered scallops, which were overwhelmed by batter, were the least impressive of the dishes I tried.

From the starter menu, the hot-and-sour soup was full of mushrooms but wasn't loaded with white pepper. The temperature was on the cool side. The crispy vegetable spring rolls were light and easy to eat without stringy vegetables hanging after every bite. Chicken pot stickers were filled with seasoned ground chicken and fried to golden perfection. Each bite had a hint of garlic, sesame and teriyaki.

Sweet to eat: Desserts are prepared by Seres' pastry chef, formerly of Gray's at the Park. Of the two desserts I tried, I thought the chocolate truffle cake topped with coconut ice cream trumped the crème brulée. Underneath the caramelized top of the crème brulée, the warm smooth custard was a treat. But the truffle cake won out with its meltingly rich chocolate balanced by the cool ice cream.

Quick take: The flavors are dynamic. The setting is relaxing. The service is more casual than lofty in attitude, but attentiveness ranges from suitable to sluggish. The prices are more appropriate for the quality of the food than the service, but then, Seres' philosophy centers on the food.

Cost: Starters are $3 to $9. Entrees range from $8 for sautéed spinach with garlic to $19 for lo mein with lobster. The spicy sesame chicken is $14. Items on the satay-dumpling bar menu range from $3 to $7. Desserts cost $4 to $7.50. Alcoholic drinks run $7 to $16.

Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday. 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

Where : 4101 S.E. 192nd Ave., Vancouver.

Contact: 360-882-5505.