June 29, 2007
by Karen Persson of The Columbian

Dungeness crab and avacado starter, dressed with a vermouth vinaigrette. MIKE SALSBURY/The Columbian

Why: Roots Restaurant & Bar specializes in cuisine that exemplifies the Northwest's best. Chef Brad Root is committed to using ingredients and products from the region - including Puget Sound clams, Ellensburg lamb and bread from Grand Central Baking Co. The menu changes with the seasons to ensure fresh ingredients.

Atmosphere: Softly lit tones of taupe and gray merge with teak and light woods, producing a mellow mood. The décor imparts a sense of Scandinavian chic. A woven lattice of stainless-steel braid, Camas root and copper tops a midroom partition that creates booth seating. Diners may also choose to sit at the chefs' counter or at tables. Patio dining is available, weather permitting.

The food: Roots gives diners a wide range of options. The Cascade Natural braised short ribs are densely marbled and fall-from-the-bone tender.

Gruyère cheese adds a nutty flavor to the roasted Draper Valley chicken breast.

Perfectly poached shrimp is served atop apple-endive slaw, which provides a mildly sweet accompaniment, enhanced by a thin, sweet Calvados (apple brandy) dressing.

Using fresh ingredients from the region resulted in a hit-and-miss experience on my visit.

The salads illustrated how tricky it can be to use organic produce. The greens had dark spots and holes. And although the waitress told me this is not an optimum time to use russet potatoes for french fries, the restaurant used them anyway. On the flip side, the asparagus served as a side dish was crisp and flavorful.

The service: Upon arriving, the hostess was absent from the desk. While waiting to be seated I made eye contact with a number of employees going to and fro. The bartender finally took the initiative to seat me.

Quick take: Roots offers innovative fare. But the upscale dining scene has changed since Roots first opened in 2003. It now has some competition to offer diners a point of comparison. For the price, I expected more from Roots - better presentation, flawless food and an atmosphere that demonstrates a high regard for customers.

You should know: The handcrafted cheese plate ($10) consists mainly of goat cheese, something not noted on the menu. If you wear black (as I did on my visit), beware the white napkins. They are not lint-free. The lighting in the bathroom is dim.

Cost: Dinner entrées range from $18 for wild mushroom, spinach and goat cheese lasagna to $23 for the duck breast with crushed red potatoes, asparagus and spring onion sauté. Expect to spend about $50 a person for the works - appetizer, salad, entree, wine and dessert.

Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sundays. 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Mondays. 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Tuesdays through Thursdays. 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays.

Happy hours: 4 to 6 p.m. Sundays through Thursdays and 9 to 10 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays.

Where: 19215 S.E. 34th St., Suite 110, Camas.

Contact: 360-260-3001, www.rootsrestaurantandbar.com .