July 6, 2007
by Karen Persson of The Columbian

Rib City Grill slowly cooks its meats over hardwoods, including red oak. Ribs come with a variety of accompanying sauces. STEVEN LANE/The Columbian

Why: Rib City Grill has a smoking process that slowly cooks meat over hardwoods, including red oak. That balances heat and cooking time, combined with a special barbecue sauce, meant to achieve the flavors of a backyard grilling. The owners are sure it will please, or you don't pay. They also promise: If you have to pick up a knife to eat the baby back ribs, they'll pick up the tab.

Back story: From one small barbecue restaurant in Florida in 1989, Rib City Grill has grown to 21 locations across the nation. This is the first in the Vancouver-Portland metropolitan area. The owners expect to expand to 25 by the end of this summer.

What I had: The menu has fingerprints from the South, including sweet tea, fried okra and Texas toast. I tried the lunch special ($8.99) that included baby babies, which are half of a half-rack of baby back ribs (cutting the rack horizontally), plus two side orders and Texas toast. The ribs are cooked to a fall-from-the-bone tenderness, and the flavor is sweet with just a trace of smoke. There are four accompanying sauces: brown sugar, a vinegar-based tangy, Carolina mustard and a hot sauce. I thought the sweet sauce best complemented the ribs. The coleslaw is fresh, not too sweet or generous with celery seeds and dressing. The beans are pressure-cooked, so more nutrition stays in them through the cooking process. The sauce is a deep rich color and has bits of pork in it. It leaves a trace of something like molasses behind, but I only can speculate because the restaurant won't divulge the source. It's a secret. The Texas toast wasn't greasy, and the garlic flavor was not overpowering. The deep-fried okra is served with ranch dressing. If you enjoy fried okra, you'll know not to chew it too many times. The more it's cut, the slimier it becomes. The three-cheese fries are cross-cut and topped with Monterey jack, cheddar and pepper cheeses with a generous amount of meaty bacon bits. A flavorful ranch dressing is served alongside for dipping. This keeps them from getting boring and compels another bite.

Is it messy? Yes, ribs are sloppy if you pick 'em up to eat 'em. That's part of the draw, I suppose. It can't be avoided.

Atmosphere: Picture a country barbecue set in the city. When you walk in the restaurant, an aroma of sweet apple and oak barbecue makes an impression of a Fourth of July picnic. Next, you'll probably notice the neon sign showcased near the back of the dining room. Halogen track lighting and the gray ceiling put a starry lid on the ivory and red walls. An old barn might have held the once useful, now discarded, objects found displayed on the walls: a two-man long saw, a washboard and skillets.

For dessert: I've had key lime pie at Miami Marriott's Bay View Grille in Biscayne Bay, Fla., and Rib City Grill's is a close second. It has just a bit thicker custard and is topped with a very dense whipped cream instead of meringue. The trademark key lime flavor is refreshingly tart.

Best deals: Bottomless sweet tea for $1.99. Kid's meal (one piece of chicken, fries and drink) is free for kids younger than 4, if you dine in the restaurant.

Cost: Lunch specials start at $4.99, for beans and franks, and go as high as $9.49 for the baby back rib plate. One full rack of baby back ribs is $15.99. You may create your own combo by choosing two or three meat choices, for $12.99 to $17.99, or get a feast for two (a combination of smoked pork and beef, a half-chicken, a full rack of baby back ribs, two baked potatoes or french fries and two orders of baked beans, coleslaw and garlic toast) for $31.99. Salads topped with chicken, shrimp, turkey or beef are $6.29 to $8.99. Kids meals for children 10 and younger are $3.99, other than the 'Lil Ribber Basket (baby back ribs, fries, applesauce and drink), which is $5.99.

Quick take: A basket full of napkins is at your fingertips, but wet towels are not provided. They have carry-out picnic packs available. The specials are a bargain.

Remember: A sow is the female pig. A boar is the male. You'll need to know this if you visit a restroom.

Where: 14415 S.E. Mill Plain Blvd., No. 117B, Vancouver. Next to Mountain View Ice Arena.

Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Mondays through Saturdays and 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Sundays.

Contact: 360-882-8005, ribcity.com.