March 9, 2007
by Tricia Jones of The Columbian

Among the favorites are, from top left, the Northwest Best Salad, Famuos Grilled Fish Taco and halibut fish and chips. Photo by Mike Salsbury of The Columbian.

WHY: Sometimes, a place appeals for reasons that are hard to understand, unless you have to put them in writing. At first I didn't know why the itsy-bitsy dining room at Pacific NW Best Fish Cafe was so welcoming. Could have been the friendly young woman behind the counter who asked if I wished for a wheat tortilla in lieu of the flour variety (an excellent idea). Could have been the easy access to condiments such as Tapatio, malt vinegar, and Aardvark (!) habanero hot sauce. Probably, though, the coziness stemmed from memories of my parents taking me as a tot to the Fosters Freeze in Wilmington, Calif., with its indoor, patio-style seating and windows fronting street life just a taquito's-throw beyond. At the Fish Cafe in Ridgefield, there's a similar sense of intimacy created by the six bar stools placing diners in an elbow-to-elbow conviviality. The views are pastoral 10th Avenue or the lot adjoining the retail seafood store. Either one inspires a sense of refuge on a damp afternoon in late winter. Besides, the Famous Grilled Fish Taco -- and I admit I shied from the suggestion at first -- was a savory surprise, combining chipotle cream sauce and marinated cabbage with mahi mahi. I would have preferred it a tad spicier. But then I might not have had the moxie to reach for the Aardvark sauce bottle.

WHERE: Pacific NW Best Fish Cafe, 24415 N.E. 10th Ave., Ridgefield.

COST: The most anyone will pay for an entree here is $10.99 for four pieces of breaded halibut served with fries, coleslaw and either tartar or dill sauce. A serving of two pieces of halibut plus trimmings costs $8.99, as does the house halibut sandwich, which also comes with fries. Otherwise, meals fall into the $4.99 (the above-mentioned fish taco, a shrimp or chicken taco) to $6.99 (Northwest Best Salad, shrimp and crab cocktail) range. Lighter appetites have choices including the plain quesadilla ($3.99), sourdough bowl ($1.25) or an assortment of bagels, savory rolls and muffins.

YOU'LL LOVE IT IF: You're beguiled by the prospect of Northwest and Southwest fare mixing it up. Purists, stay home!

DON'T GO IF: You're planning the 13th annual Smith/Johnson family reunion and want all your relations with you in the dining room.

YOU SHOULD KNOW: Weather permitting, the cafe has outdoor seating in spring and summer. Co-owner Kelly Beckwith said there's a good chance that extra patio seating will be available when the sun starts making more regular visits to Ridgefield.

HOURS: 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. Monday through Saturday.

CONTACT: 360-887-4094, www.pacificnwbest.com.