January 12, 2006
by Brett Oppegaard of The Columbian

Supremo Ranchero Burrito, front, and the Enchilada Plate. Photo by Mike Salsbury of The Columbian.

Why: Downtown Vancouver does best with lunch fare and offers a variety of quick options. But for fast and flavorful, Pepper's Taqueria's fresh ingredients makes it the default choice for Mexican food.

Be sure to try: The burrito. The base model is simply beans, rice, lettuce and a touch of salsa wrapped in a soft flour tortilla. On its own, it can be kind of dry. The salsa bar, though, is where this dish really is made. Patrons have a wide variety of add-on options, including pico de gallo, diced jalapenos, onions, green and red salsas and cilantro. I suggest smothering the burrito in salsa, then topping it with as much of the spicy stuff as you can handle.

Cost: Vegetarian burritos are $4.89. Chicken, steak, shredded beef or pork will bump that up to $5.25, with baja-style halibut available for $6.25 and shrimp for $6.49.

And for a really big one: Pepper's offers a 4-foot-long burrito that serves 15-20 people for $43.

Also on the menu: Typical Mexican food options, including tacos, enchiladas and quesadillas. Combo plates range from three taquitos for $6.15 to an enchilada and quesadilla for $6.79 to two seafood tacos for $7.95.

You'll love it if: You are really hungry. These burritos are a load.

Don't go if: You want a quiet and classy sit-down meal with a client or long-lost friend. This is a casual place made for having quick meals.

Atmosphere: Bold primary colors complement a classic hardwood floor, with bouncy music from Mexico loudly playing in the background. Lunch lines can be long.

Could do without: Eating this food certainly makes one thirsty. Those who want a cup of water get a Styrofoam cup. Seems like there are better options for the environment.

Hours: 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Saturday.

Where: 800 Main St., Vancouver.

Phone: 360-737-0322.