July 27, 2007
by Karen Persson of The Columbian

Keo Thai offers a varied menu of authentic Thai cuisine, including Pad Kee Mao (hot and spicy noodles with vegetables and shrimp), foreground, and Tod Krob Kai (crisp fried chicken), top, and Thai iced tea, with coconut cream, right. WILL CAMPBELL/The Columbian

Why: Judging from the light-but-steady flow of customers during my visit, Keo Thai Cuisine has gained a following since it opened in the Gardener Center Mall a year ago.

The entrees are fresh and colorful. For me, the trip was worth it just to try the mint-garnished mango-over-rice dessert - a warm rectangle of sticky rice topped with a pristine mango half drizzled with coconut glaze. The consistency of the mango was firm but not stringy, and the flavor was very sweet but not too rich. It's a seasonal offering, so hurry.

Atmosphere: The dining room imparts the effect of a relaxing courtyard with tri-fold screens, plants, urns and an abundance of fresh-cut oriental lily bouquets. The only thing absent is a charming fountain.

What I tried: A hearty portion of Pad Baa Mee (stir-fried fresh yakisoba noodles with chicken, broccoli, baby bok choy, onions and carrots) arrived piping hot. The dish has a salty soy flavor and tender, thinly sliced chicken pieces, not the chewy chunks I've found very common with this type of fare. Fresh vegetables are crisp and bright, adding color and nutrition to this Thai noodle dish.

The stir-fried rice with pineapple and chicken (Khao Pad) is pineapple-sweet and not too oily.

For many, a Thai food experience isn't complete without a spring roll. Keo Thai's include eggs, which enhance the flavor. The chili sauce for dipping is slightly thicker than the common watery consistency. It has chopped peanuts atop and a sweet fruity flavor with a hint of chili.

Quick take: Prompt friendly service. Food arrives quickly. The tableware is spotless and the water tastes good.

You should know: They don't use MSG. They do have brown rice. You may also order food to go.

Cost: Appetizers cost $3 to $8.95. Soups and salads are $5.95 to $12.95. Main dishes range from $8.50 for Pad Baa Mee (stir-fried yakisoba noodles, chicken, broccoli, baby bok choy, onions and carrots) to $12.95 for Kaeng Phet Ped Ya-ang (roast duck in red curry paste with pineapple, bamboo shoot, green beans, and basil). Or, one of the chef specialties incorporating fish and seafood are $9.95 to $13.95. Dessert ranges from $3.50 to $4.50.

Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays. 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Fridays. Noon to 10 p.m. Saturdays. Noon to 9 p.m. Sundays.

Where: 1800 S.W. Ninth Ave., Suite 101, Battle Ground.

Contact: 360-666-6269, www.keothaicuisine.com .