April 6, 2006
by Mike Bailey of The Columbian

The vegetable and cheese omelet is served with hash browns and half a biscuit with gravy. John Caldwell of Vancouver, foreground, says he has visited the cafe almost every day for 30 years. He is seated at the counter next to Kathy and Jim Howard of Vancouver, who stop in about three times per week. JANET L. MATHEWS/The Columbian

A phrase from the television show "Cheers" theme song goes "sometimes you want to go where everybody knows your name, and they're always glad you came."

Joe Brown's Cafe in downtown Vancouver seems like that kind of place, even on a first visit.

Soft banter among the repeat diners, some whom eagerly share with strangers that they've been eating at Joe Brown's almost daily for 30 years, fills the small restaurant. And the staff is the first to yell "hi" when a familiar face walks in.

Customers don't just go for that communal hug; there's the food.

The menu is about comfort food: four-egg omelets, biscuits with country sausage gravy, stacks of large pancakes, and milkshakes made with scoops of hard ice cream and served in glasses with the metal cup on the side.

A few heart-healthy items such as the grilled chicken breast sandwich and the garden burger are on the menu, but this is primarily a place for calorie-rich breakfasts, sandwiches and fried specialties.

The history: The late Joe Brown opened Joe Brown's in 1932, and the spot continues to be a fixture on Main Street. Brown sold the shop to current owner Lew Carlton in 1985.

Atmosphere: There's nothing fancy here, just a comfortable cafe with an old-fashioned counter, booths and a few tables. Antique photos dot the wall, a few slightly askew. In the three display areas are filled with more than 100 photos of Carlton with his many regular customers.

Best deals: There's a $5.99 breakfast special that includes two eggs with a side of bacon, sausage, hamburger patty or Polish sausage and a choice of Belgian waffle, two pancakes, two slices of French toast, English muffin or toast. At lunch, there's the Cool Deal which includes a cheeseburger, fries and soft drink for $8.

Cost: Breakfast is served all day with 13 omelets priced from $8.99 to $9.49. Seven pancake choices range from $2.99 to $5.99, and 22 other breakfast items are priced from the $3.99 for the Belgian waffle to $11.99 for a large breakfast with four eggs, hash browns, choice of meat and choice of waffle, pancakes or French toast. Burgers are a popular lunch item at $4.50 to $9.99, but the menu also includes a variety of sandwiches, a grilled salmon fillet for $6.99, a New York steak for $9.99, and pork chops with mashed potatoes for $9.99.

Believe it or not: Carlton has an unusual tidbit printed on the cover of his menu. In 1988, a baby was born in the restaurant's restroom. Chef Everett Parrish said it wasn't a customer, but someone who has waiting for a bus outside the cafe and came in after she went into labor.

Where: 817 Main St., Vancouver; 360-693-6375.

Hours: 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Saturday, 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sunday.