September 28, 2007
by Mike Bailey of The Columbian

Beef brisket and pulled pork are among five different meats available at JDawg BBQ, which opened about three months ago on St. Johns Road in Vancouver. Customers have several options of both entrees and side dishes. (STEVEN LANE/The Columbian)

Where we ate this week: JDawg BBQ

Why: Clark County has just a handful of restaurants devoted exclusively to barbecue, so any addition to the list should be a good thing. JDawg BBQ, owned by Leo Ferrara, opened about three months ago east of Hazel Dell on St. Johns Road. Ferrara's restaurant may be new, but he's a barbecue veteran with more than two decades of cooking experience on outdoor grills.

Dig in: Ferrara offers five types of meats, and if the pulled chicken, sausage and pork ribs are as good as the beef brisket and pulled pork, he should have a hit on his hands. The brisket was moist and easily sliced with a plastic knife. Ferrara said he cooks the brisket for 12 to 15 hours the day before and lets it cool overnight. He brings it back up to serving temperature the next day and keeps it in a warmer. The pulled pork was just as flavorful and, most importantly, lean.

Sidetracked: JDawg offers four classic side dishes: potato salad, macaroni salad, barbecued beans and cole slaw. I tried the beans with my dish. They were packed with small bits of brisket, onions and red peppers. I could have used a little more brown sugar, but the bits of brisket certainly add a meaty flavor to the beans.

May need a second chance: Cornbread is an essential part of any barbecue meal, and the corn muffin just didn't deliver for me. It was dry and crumbled into tiny pieces when I broke it open. Ferrara said he expects mine was an isolated case.

Atmosphere: NASCAR fans will love the memorabilia hanging on the walls. Ferrara developed a love of the sport at the same time he honed his barbecue skills while living in North Carolina. The diner's decor is spare, but the atmosphere is intimate. There's seating for 24 people at eight tables. A counter against one wall holds five large bottles with spouts so patrons can add barbecue sauces ranging from traditional mild to spicy smoked to their meals. What really stands out, however, is how personable Ferrara and his sister, Stephanie Agard, are with the customers. You'd think everyone in the diner was family or longtime friends. As he chats with guests, Ferrara checks to make sure the meal meets the diner's standards.

Cost: Beef brisket sandwiches are $6.25, or the sandwich with one side dish is $7.25. Pulled pork, sausage or pulled chicken sandwiches are $5.75, or $7 with a side dish. Those with hearty appetites should consider the meat plates. Order one, two or three meats and choose one or two side dishes or chips and pickle. Prices range from $9.95 for one meat with one side dish to $17.50 for three meats and two side dishes. A pork rib plate, with two to eight ribs, is $9.95 to $23.95. Side dishes are $1.50 but also are sold by the quart or pint. Baked potatoes or rice, covered in one meat, are $5.25.

Where: 9014 St. Johns Road, Vancouver.

Hours: 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday.

Contact: Call 360-574-2282 or visit jdawgbbq.com .

Health score: JDawg BBQ received a score of 0 when it opened in June and has not been inspected since. Zero is a perfect score, and the Clark County Public Health Department closes restaurants that score 100 or higher. For information, call 360-397-8428.