February 23, 2006
by Brett Oppegaard of The Columbian

The base fondue at Gustav's is good. But after tasting this version with Dungeness crab and roasted red pepper, it's hard to go back. DAVE OLSON/The Columbian

Why: East Vancouver has many restaurants, but nothing like Gustav's German Pub & Grill, a place that creates a European experience while catering to American sensibilities.

You'll love it if: You want a distinct atmosphere -- casual yet also semi-classy -- and a diverse menu offering quality and quantity as well as consistency. This restaurant is a sure bet for most occasions.

Decor looks like: An alpine resort. After walking past a faux street-scape, complete with rows of flags and upstairs windows, patrons are seated at heavy wood furniture, under exposed beams, near a huge fireplace. High walls are decorated with snowshoes, skis and deer heads.

Don't go if: You are counting calories. Most of the food is hefty, and the fondue is too tempting.

Be sure to try: The Dungeness crab and roasted red pepper fondue, $12.25. Fondue is a must, but this ultimate version of the appetizer can be a satisfying meal on its own, when combined with a drink and salad. Swiss cheese, garlic and white wine fondue is $7.99, $9.49 with sliced smoked bier sausage.

Most popular: Traditional German specialties, such as the wiener schnitzel (garnished with lemon and anchovies and served with mashed potatoes and tomato-cucumber salad, $13.99), Rheinischer sauerbraten (marinated beef braised in red-wine vinegar stock, $12.49) and lamb shank (a pound of lamb served with vegetables and herbs as well as mashed potatoes, $16.99). A sandwich-soup/salad combination at lunch is $6.95.

Service star: Jason Sanders, a manager, randomly stopped at our table during a recent meal. As part of the chat, my 5-year-old daughter mentioned that the chicken leg and mashed potatoes from the children's menu hadn't fully filled her up. So Sanders brought out another plate, at no cost. He also personally corrected a billing mistake.

Family friendly: A couple of kids from other tables congregated in a booth near us on this same night, and the staff just let all of the children play together while the adults finished their meals. At times, kids, including mine, can be loud and out of their seats, so that could be a distraction to some.

Link to Der Rheinlander: The parent of the four Gustav's restaurants spread throughout the metropolitan area is the Portland landmark the Rheinlander, 5035 N.E. Sandy Blvd. It offers many of the same items, and even includes a Gustav's wing. The original has a higher-end menu, too, and offers regular entertainment by accordion players. Gustav's, in essence, is an abbreviated version of the Rheinlander.

Where: 1705 S.E. 164th Ave., Vancouver.

Hours: 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sundays through Thursdays, 11 a.m. to midnight Fridays and Saturdays.

Happy hours: 3 to 6 p.m. daily, 9 to 11 p.m. Sundays through Thursdays, and 11 p.m. to midnight Fridays and Saturdays.

Contact: 360-883-0222, www.gustavs.net.