November 23, 2007
by Karen Persson of The Columbian

Fat Dave's II serves up breakfast and other fare at its Five Corners location. The Fat Dave's special consists of three pancakes, three eggs, hash browns, toast and meat. N. SCOTT TRIMBLE/The Columbian

Why: Fat Dave's offers a taste of local hospitality and home-style cooking. I visited the restaurant's Five Corners location, Fat Dave's II, and discovered a menu with something for everyone.

Atmosphere: A modern remodel adds Tuscan flair to the traditional diner-style restaurant. Earthy tones, trendy lampshades and comfortable seating set the tone for easy dining. Everything but the acoustic popcorn ceiling is new.

The menu: It offers a lot of variety, including biscuits and gravy, poached eggs, chicken-fried steak, and a chili-with-cheese omelet for breakfast.

Those with lighter appetites could easily order from the sides and build a filling breakfast without overdoing it.

For lunch and dinner, the options include a patty melt sandwich, a Caesar salad with wild salmon, clam strips with french fries, top sirloin steak, and liver and onions.

For dinner, you can order up what Fat Dave's calls The Biggest Burger, aptly named with two-thirds of a pound of beef.

Soups and salads, hearty entrees, and specials abound on a daily basis.

What I tried: The Monte Cristo sandwich was my favorite, even though it's not deep-fried after assembly, as traditionally prepared. Fat Dave's version is made with fried egg bread sprinkled with powdered sugar and accompanied by maple syrup (or preserves). The turkey is lean, the ham has a small amount of fat, and the American and Swiss cheeses are sufficiently melted in this American derivative of the croque-monsieur. A hint of nutmeg and sweetness combine with the rich cheeses, ham and turkey for a satisfying sandwich.

I also tried the chicken noodle soup. It incorporates grilled chicken breast pieces, which adds a surprising and well-seasoned flavor to the soup.

The mashed russet potatoes aren't super creamy, but they are free of skin and slightly lumpy with minimal salt. You can choose from three gravies: brown, country and regular. I thought the regular gravy, which is yellow and poultry-based, brought the potatoes to life without the need for additional salt.

Cost: Breakfast specials are $5.25 to $10.50. Omelets - served with red potatoes, hot cakes or hash browns and toast - cost $6.75 to $8.25. Burgers range from $6 for the basic hamburger, up to $9.25 for The Biggest Burger with cheese. Entrees are $8.50 to $9.50. A top sirloin is $8.99 for a 6 oz. or $9.99 for an 8 oz.

Hours: 6 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Sunday.

Where: 9324 N.E. 76th St., Vancouver.

Contact: 360-573-7430.