January 4, 2008
by Alita Bowder for The Columbian

The Carolina Red Panini, center, filled with pulled pork, is one of several varieties of sandwich served at Farrar's Bistro. Here, the sandwich is served with spicy house mayonnaise, left, and roasted butternut squash and pear soup, right. (ZACHARY KAUFMAN/The Columbian)

Why: Farrar's Bistro is a place for those who want everything from a good cup of coffee to an intimate candlelight dinner at an upscale but not snooty restaurant. Farrar's is one of those cozy little neighborhood treasures that provides a welcome break from the big chain restaurants dotting the landscape.

You should know: The restaurant can be hard to find, so keep your eyes peeled. It's next to the Shell station and behind My Neighbor's Attic on Northwest 36th Avenue in Felida.

The food: If you think that panini and wraps are on the same plane as ladyfingers and watercress sandwiches, think again. The offerings at Farrar's Bistro are deeply rich, well-balanced and satisfying meals.

Our waitress recommended the Carolina Red Panini. The grilled sandwich has pulled pork (one of the restaurant's specialties), homemade slaw, red onions, dill pickles and sharp cheddar cheese, with a spicy house mayonnaise on the side. The pork was tender, with a smoky flavor.

The meal was paired with a cup of roasted butternut squash and pear soup, which had a few pieces of crystallized ginger adding a nice bit of warmth to it. My dining companion said the ginger did not overwhelm the creamy richness of the butternut squash flavor. The soup can be ordered without the ginger.

I ordered the Bourbon BBQ Club Wrap and selected the tomato basil tortilla over the flour option. The chicken is smoked and goes nicely with the crisp pepper bacon, avocado, tomatoes, lettuce and havarti cheese. It also came with a side of the house mayonnaise. This wrap held together better than any wrap I've had. The meat was warm and the vegetables added nice moisture to my meal, as did the bit of spicy mayonnaise I added with each bite.

I also paired my wrap with a cup of soup, but opted for an offering not on the regular menu: potato-leek soup. The leek gave the soup a nice hint of sweetness, and the Yukon gold potato peels added a delicate crunch.

Quick take: Sophisticated comfort food served in a charming bistro-coffee shop setting. Owner Debbie Belden and chef Terry Farrar infuse the menu with Southern flair. Farrar makes his own dressing, marinades, rubs, desserts and soups. Farrar's Bistro uses local vendors when possible, such as Stumptown coffee and Grand Central Bakery.

Cost: At lunch, a cup of soup is $3.50, a Caesar salad $6.95, panini $9.95 and wraps $9.75. You can also create your own sandwich starting at $6.95. Dinner appetizers include sesame grilled asparagus for $4.95 and smoked salmon with spicy cucumbers at $7.95. Salads cost $3.50 to $8.95. Entrees come with grilled vegetables, fresh-baked bread and your choice of sides, including roasted sweet potatoes with orange pecan butter. The menu includes Southern macaroni and cheese at $12.95 and lemon sage grilled veal chop for $20.95. Desserts - chocolate mousse, blueberry merlot cobbler or homemade bistro ice cream - are $5.25. Sunday brunch is offered as well, with prices ranging from a $6.95 salad to market-priced oak-grilled swordfish with almond garlic butter. A kid's menu includes such staples as peanut butter and jelly or grilled cheese sandwiches for $4.95.

Hours: Closed Monday. Tuesday through Thursday, 6:30 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Friday, 6:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Saturday, 8 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Sunday, 8 a.m. to 2 p.m., with brunch à la carte from 10 a.m. to close.

Where: 12514 N.W. 36th Ave., Vancouver.

Contact: farrarsbistro.com or 360-571-7005.