September 21, 2007
by Mary Ann Albright of The Columbian

El Delfin (translation: The Dolfin) features dishes popular on Mexico’s west coast, as well as co-owner Fabian Gonzalez’s creations. He serves most entrees such as the chicken fajitas lunch special, right, with sour cream, guacamole and diced tomatoes, an homage to Mexico’s red, white and green flag. The fish tacos, left, are made with beer-battered tilapia. (JANET L. MATHEWS/The Columbian)

Where we ate this week: El Delfin

Why: Since El Delfin opened in July, co-owner Fabian Gonzalez has been combining his own culinary inventions with staples of the San Blas region of Mexico including seafood tacos and burritos and posole, a pork and hominy soup. Gonzalez said he likes to experiment in the kitchen, and his adventurous streak pays off with flavorful salsa, marinades and seasonings. The food was worth a trip back, even though the service and ambiance disappointed.

You should know: A friend and I made the mistake of arriving at noon. We found ourselves in the middle of the lunch rush, largely due to students from the nearby International Air and Hospitality Academy. We walked up to the counter and waited to order, taking in a view of the restaurant's exposed kitchen, stark blue walls and no-frills furnishings. The cashier seemed disorganized and disinterested. When we reached the front of the line, he started to serve the person behind us. We had to assert ourselves and say we were there first. The awkwardness continued when we requested lunch specials, which come with rice, beans and a soda. I asked if I needed to specify whether I wanted black, pinto or refried beans. The cashier seemed annoyed and said they only serve refried beans. When we finally completed our orders and sat down, we tried in vain to find a booth without torn upholstery. It took 40 minutes from the time we walked in the door for our meals to be served. Even with the wait, my meal arrived at least five minutes before my friend's did.

Be sure to try: The wait was made somewhat tolerable with the early arrival of our chips-and-salsa appetizer. Gonzalez, 39, makes his own chips and seasoning, a fantastic blend of garlic, onion, pepper and salt that adds interest to what can otherwise be a bland snack. I am a big wimp when it comes to spicy foods, and even I had no trouble handling the roasted garlic and tomatillo salsa, which has just a hint of jalapeño. I wish the salsa had been a little chunkier, though. I had trouble scooping it up with my chips because it kept running off. My friend ordered the fish tacos, two double corn tortillas, each filled with a light, flaky tilapia fillet, salsa, lettuce, onions and cilantro. The fish is beer-battered and deep-fried, but I couldn't see or taste any grease when I stole a bite. My friend prefers slices of grilled fish in her tacos, but still gave these her seal of approval. I had the chicken fajitas, and I can't wait to order them again. The corn tortillas are purchased fresh from the next-door tortilleria. Gonzalez bastes them with a marinade of garlic, pepper, vinegar, chili powder, soy sauce and paprika, then grills them for a smoky, slightly charred flavor. They were by far the best tortillas I've ever had. He uses the same marinade on the fajita mix of chicken breast, green bell peppers and onions. My only complaints were the skimpy sides of rice, beans, sour cream and guacamole. I ran out after using just two of my five tortillas. I also wish I'd been given pico de gallo, a mix of onions, chilies, cilantro and tomatoes, instead of a spoonful of watery diced tomatoes.

You'll love it if: You like authentic Mexican food with a creative twist.

Don't go if: You're in a hurry or want a romantic date spot. Consider faxing your order ahead and getting food to go.

Cost: Lunch specials, which include rice, beans, a fountain drink and your choice of entree (chicken fajitas, chile relleno, chicken enchiladas, fish tacos or a chicken or steak quesadilla) are $7.99. Tortas (Mexican sandwiches with mayonnaise, guacamole, sour cream, lettuce, onions, cilantro, salsa and your choice of meat on a grilled bun) are $4.99. A rotating daily special is available for $5.99. Lunch is served Monday through Friday from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.

On the dinner menu, prices range from $8.99 for three chicken enchiladas served with rice and beans to $12 for the seafood burrito, a flour tortilla stuffed with grilled prawns, fish, scallops, clams and homemade cream sauce. An order of chips and salsa costs $2.50 and is big enough for three or four people to share.

Hours: 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily.

Where: 900 Grand Blvd., Vancouver.

Contact: 360-695-6507, 360-695-1680 (fax).