April 27, 2006
by Karen Persson for The Columbian

This classic steak sandwich is made up of 20 percent lamb and 80 percent beef. (JANET L. MATHEWS/The Columbian)

Why: The Döner Haus Café menu boasts, "World Famous Toasted Döner." I was curious to learn what a toasted döner is and what makes it world famous.

How do you say döner? Owner Mike Bock says it's pronounced "derner." As to what it is: a clever pocket sandwich.

Haven't I seen that name somewhere else? You might recognize the term döner kebab, which means "turning roast." The steak döner here follows that tradition of vertically roasting the meat. Bock says this allows more fat to drain, making it more healthful. Afterward, the meat is kept warm and tender in steam. If it was cooked horizontally in a pan, the steak would be marinating in the grease.

Atmosphere: Exposed concrete floors lend to a clean atmosphere. The seating arrangement has a cozy café feel. It's not quite rubbing elbows with those seated next to you, but close enough to chat with them without raising your voice. The Tudor-style walls are decorated with faux windows made of curtained, glass-paned vestiges from a bygone era, and an open ceiling allows room for rows of European flags that put the finishing touch on the décor. A large screen television is visible from all the tables, but you can sit with your back to the screen, if watching the latest on ESPN detracts from your dining experience.

What I tried: After looking over the nine different döners on the menu - which include Philly cheese, steak 'n' bacon and sausage -I chose the halibut döner with the basic toppings. As for the world-famous claim, the ciabatta bread is heartier than pita bread and makes an ingenious cover for this warm sandwich, because it doesn't absorb the dressing and break down. That keeps the sandwich consistent to the last bite. It was a pleasant break from the typical lunch fare of deli sandwiches and burgers.

Be sure to sample: The Haus Chips made my lunch unforgettable. These are thin-sliced homemade potato chips sprinkled with a seasoning that compliments the hearty potato flavor often lost in the processing of packaged potato chips. For dessert, don't pass up a slice of Creative Cakery's bundt cake. There is French Vanilla, carrot, chocolate and lemon to choose from, and all of them have a generous amount of frosting, not the typical thin drizzle. I found the lemon to be exceptional. It was moist and dense, and the lemon flavor was more sweet than tart.

Best deal: Kids eat for free on Wednesday nights after 5 p.m. It's a one-for-one deal, with the purchase of an adult meal required to get the free kid's meal.

Cost: The döners start at $5.59. Extra meat is 99 cents. A combo deal is available, offering a döner, side order and drink for $1.50 less (price varies depending on which döner you choose). Side orders range from $1.29 for the Haus Chips, to $4.99 for a large order of beer-battered onion rings.

Hours: 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays, 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays and 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. on Sundays.

Where: 16020 S.E. Mill Plain Blvd., No. 115, adjacent to the east Vancouver Target.

Contact: 360-891-0795, thedonerhaus.com .