November 2, 2007
by Karen Persson of The Columbian

Afternoon tea at CT Cafe. STEVEN LANE/The Columbian

Where we ate this week: CT Cafe

Why: CT Cafe offers a tranquil respite yet an ambitious menu, including classic sandwiches, burgers, salads and pasta, plus a side of Asian flair.

Atmosphere: Watercolor paintings, bamboo, burlap and slate accent this strip mall-based restaurant. Petite beaded shades outfit halogen lighting at the booths and the bar.

The food: I went for breakfast and debated on whether to have the rudiments of traditional American breakfast fare or try the Asian breakfast. I chose the latter and ended up with a breakfast unlike any I'd had before.

It's best described with three temperatures in mind: hot, cold and room temperature.

The rice porridge and hot bun were hot and starchy. The porridge incorporated chunks of bamboo. The hot bun, my favorite, was a tad sweet with an oily sheen on the golden exterior, which encased an amazingly white dense interior. The flavor was similar to divinity candy and I thought it would be outstanding with jelly.

These had eight accompaniments, each in its own square dish, placed to form one big square on a woven tray. Salty shredded jerky-like pork served at room temperature was my least favorite. All the air that the shredding incorporated into the meat reminded me of Styrofoam. Cold scrambled eggs with onions were high on the salt meter as well. Short shoestring potatoes were cooked to soft-firm and served cold, mixed with bacon bits and a dressing that had a hit of smoke flavor.

Fried tofu, mushrooms and bamboo pieces were cold and drenched in soy sauce. Dehydrated tofu was fried with soy sauce and served cold, but the oil and sauce had separated.

The Asian breakfast at CT Café consists of rice porridge, hot bun and accompaniments including shredded pork and cold scrambled eggs. (STEVEN LANE/The Columbian)

The platter also included roasted, salted peanuts, watermelon and grapes, and a diagonally cut fried bread stick, all at room temperature.

Although I prefer a traditional hot breakfast, I was rewarded for my adventurous choice with a filling meal.

Appetizers - including spring rolls, fried calamari, mozzarella sticks and beer-battered zucchini sticks - are available all day.

Beyond the breakfast menu, you'll find chicken, pork, beef and seafood with soups and salads, pastas and sandwiches.

House specialties, including smoked prime rib, chicken with pecans, and CT's baby back ribs are served with Yukon Gold mashed potatoes with gravy, sautéed fresh vegetables, choice of soup or Caesar salad and ice cream.

Quick take: Remarkably clean, relaxing atmosphere, prompt, friendly service.

Cost: The Asian breakfast costs $7.99. Three-egg omelet plus your choice of toast and pan-fried potatoes or two pancakes costs $7.99 (add $1 for egg substitute). Appetizers range from $1.50 for a fried bread stick to $8.99 for two crab cakes. Lunches are $5.99 to $13.99. Dinners are $10.99 to $22.99.

Hours: 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. on Saturday and Sunday. 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Friday. Closed 2:30 p.m. to 5 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday. Afternoon tea by reservation only.

Where: 16209 S.E. McGillivray Blvd., Vancouver.

Contact: Call 360-883-0715 or visit www.ct-cafe.com online.