February 2, 2007
by Tricia Jones of The Columbian

Chipotle Mexican Grill serves its burritos and tacos assembly-line fashion, preparing entrees to customer specifications. Photo by Steven Lane of The Columbian.

WHERE: Chipotle Mexican Grill, 915 S.E. 164th Ave., ­Vancouver; 360-256-2355, or visit www.chipotle.com.

WHY: Perhaps because of my orderly nature, I enjoy the reassuring ritual of stepping up to my place in line, then following the progress of the entree opposite me as it goes through the hands that will compose a meal to my liking. At Chipotle Mexican Grill, diners choose what will go into their lunches and dinners. And who doesn't thrive on the illusion that we can impose control on our lives? Exercise it by selecting one of two types of beans, four kinds of meats (or a veggie option) and four varieties of salsas. Cheese, sour cream and lettuce are available for each dish; guacamole and chips are considered extras.

BACKSTORY: This is Clark County's first Chipotle, and perhaps not its last, according to Seattle-based spokeswoman Nilah Mazza. Seven Washington outlets have preceded it. All are in the Seattle area, ranging from Federal Way to Lynnwood. The nationwide chain touts itself as offering burritos, tacos, and salads using, where possible, meats from animals raised without hormones or antibiotics. Chipotle says the Vancouver location joins the six Portland stores in serving naturally raised beef and pork.

YOU'LL LOVE IT IF: You get tired of the predictable and pallid results of Northwest-tries-Southwest cuisine. The burrito is the head honcho at Chipotle, and mine was made with a beef dubbed barbacoa -- described by the menu as containing "our own chipotle adobo," cumin, cloves, garlic and oregano. (I'm thankful that there's no mention of the cow cheeks said to be used in some barbacoa recipes.) Spend the extra 65 cents for an order of chips if a salt/lime combo sends your tongue to paraiso.

DON'T GO IF: Your digestive system functions best in a cushy atmosphere. The decor is all hard surfaces and cold colors, making lingering unappealing -- especially in winter.

COST: Most tacos, salads and burritos (including the Burrito Bol, a burrito or fajita served in a bowl with no tortilla) cost from $5.10 to $5.85. Extras are: chips & guacamole, $2; chips & salsa, $1.25; guacamole, $1.40; chips, 65 cents. Sodas cost $1.25 or $1.50. Bottle drinks cost $1.50. Domestic beer sells for $2.75; specialty beer for $3.25. A margarita costs $3.50.

HOURS: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily.