November 16, 2007
by Mary Ann Albright of The Columbian

The barbecue chicken salad, left, and the chicken club wrap with french fries are among Blackstone American Grill’s more popular lunch offerings, restaurant staffers said. Chicken used in salads, wraps and entrees is brined overnight in a mixture of salt and water to retain flavor and moisture. (BEN CAMPBELL/The Columbian)

Why: Opened in mid October, Blackstone American Grill brings a diverse menu, warm ambiance and friendly service to the Fisher's Landing neighborhood. Food offerings include soups, salads, pastas, grilled meats, pizzas and sandwiches, and span a range of prices and portion sizes.

Atmosphere: The restaurant is situated in an eclectic commercial plaza among a bank, a nail salon and other dining establishments. It looks generic from the outside, but inside it manages to be both casual and elegant. Exposed brick walls, a large gas fireplace and a neutral color palette create a comfortable backdrop for eating, drinking and socializing. The bar area features sectional sofas and oversized chairs where small groups can gather to watch televised sporting events or take in live music. Ample windows flood the split-level main dining room with natural light.

Food: Lunch offerings range from pesto chicken soup to salads to sandwiches, pastas, burgers, steaks and pizzas. The dinner menu includes house-brined chicken cacciatore, wild salmon and stuffed pork loin. Vegetarian options such as stuffed bell peppers and tomato basil pizza also are available. My dining companion and I decided at our waitress' suggestion to try the barbecue chicken salad. We weren't disappointed. Fresh, crisp baby spinach and mixed greens came topped with firm and flavorful diced tomatoes, shaved red onion, finely shredded cheddar cheese, crumbled bacon, guacamole and ample slices of grilled chicken breast rubbed with a sweet mesquite sauce. We also ordered the chicken club wrap, served with square-cut seasoned french fries cooked crisp on the outside and soft inside, with delicious traces of potato skin remaining on the ends. The wrap itself lacked flavor and was dry and fell apart when I ate it. The garlic mayonnaise blended well with pieces of grilled chicken breast, bacon crumbles, romaine lettuce, red onion and diced tomatoes, but the herb tortilla was bland. Shredded cheddar cheese would have added a creamy sharpness to the dish, and ranch or Caesar salad dressing might have provided more moisture and held the wrap together better than mayonnaise did. I also had hoped the chicken and bacon would be warm, but instead it was served chilled. Blackstone was out of most sweets when we visited at noon on a Tuesday. At the time, the restaurant had been open for less than two weeks. The dessert shortage was the only sign that some kinks had yet to be ironed out.

Service: Our waitress was friendly, and food arrived promptly. Soda refills were plentiful. The kitchen was accommodating when we asked that the wrap and salad be split. The manager also stopped by the table to inquire about how we were enjoying our meal.

Cost: Appetizers range from $3.50 for a small order of stuffed endive to $9.50 for a large helping of Pacific crab won tons. Soup is $3.95 for a cup and $5.50 for a bowl. Salads start at $3.50 for the house staple and go up to $11.95 for a steak and arugula creation. Some entrees are available in small and large portions, good for those watching their wallets and waistlines. A 7-ounce flank steak, topped with onions and mushrooms and served with white cheddar mashed potatoes and assorted vegetables, is $12.95. The 12-ounce version is $19.95. The most expensive dinner item, at $26.95, is the Stone's Mixed Grill, which includes a petit filet of beef, lamb chops and a leg of duck confit served over potatoes au gratin. Sandwiches cost $7.50 to $12.95. Happy hour items start at $1.50 for a miniature burger and go up to $4.75 for fried ravioli. A two-drink minimum is required. Desserts are $5 to $7. Kids 12 and younger eat free all day Sunday. More menu and pricing information is available on the restaurant's Web site, blackstoneamericangrill.com .

Hours: 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Monday through Friday for lunch; dinner is served from 4 to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and from 4 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Happy hour is offered daily from 4 to 6:30 p.m. and from 9 p.m. until close. Breakfast and lunch are served Saturday and Sunday from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. Live music is performed in the bar from 9 p.m. to 1 a.m. Fridays and Saturdays.

Where: 3200 S.E. 164th Ave., Suite 204, Vancouver.

Contact: 360-253-0253.