January 5, 2007
by Mike Bailey of The Columbian

The Burger Love, with applewood smoked bacon, two cheeses, grilled onions, lettuce and tomato, is the top-selling lunch item. Photo by Steven Lane of The Columbian.

Why: It's tough to concentrate on food when you're surrounded by images of college bowl games, the World Series of Poker and athletes climbing rock walls. But if you can pry your eyes away from the jumbo screen covering the wall behind the bar at Big Al's Sports Bar & Grill, where up to 12 simultaneous satellite feeds keep you entertained, the menu is worth a look. Big Al's Bar & Grill, which is part of Big Al's Bowling Center, offers an impressive selection of hamburgers. The lunchtime top seller is the aptly named Burger Love. The 8-ounce ground chuck patty is topped with applewood smoked bacon, cheddar and jack cheeses, and grilled onions, plus all the regular fixings that come with burgers, Sous chef Enrique Santa Cruz says there are several reasons Burger Love tops the list of favorites. "The items on the burger are everyday items that people know and they are comfortable with," he said. "They don't expect any surprises when they order this burger." He also said the patties are fresh from a meat processor in Portland. "They are about as flavorful as I have seen," Santa Cruz said. No argument from me. The meat had a grilled flavor and was juicy. I ordered the burger with the grilled onions on the side, the bacon crispy but not burned and no tomatoes. It came just as I requested, including bacon cooked exactly as I had instructed. Burger Love comes on a ciabatta roll, but regular hamburger rolls are available upon request.

Cost: Most burgers, including the Burger Love, cost $8.95. The exceptions are 2 Tons of Love (the Burger Love with two beef patties) at $11.95 and the open-faced chili-cheese burger at $9.95. Specialty dishes include honey-pecan salmon salad ($14.95), ancho-honey pork shank ($16.95), St. Louis-style ribs ($19.95) and tenderloin steak ($21.95). The menu also offers a variety of appetizers, salads and other sandwiches.

Hours: 9 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sunday through Wednesday, 9 a.m. to midnight Thursday, 9 a.m. to 2 a.m. Friday and Saturday.

Where: Big Al's Sports Bar & Grill, 16615 S.E. 18th St., Vancouver, 360-944-6118.