August 31, 2007
by Karen Persson for The Columbian

Some of the pastries, including thumbprint cookies, along with Italian espresso are offered at Artino’s Bakery & Cafe in Vancouver. Artino’s also has sandwiches, grilled panini, salads, soups and breakfast items. (JANET L. MATHEWS The Columbian)

Why: Grandma Helen's recipes and family tradition are what it's all about at Artino's Bakery & Cafe. She opened her first bakery 55 years ago in Tucson, Ariz. Now grandson Tony Splaver and his wife, Michelle, carry on the tradition, bringing generations of baking know-how to Vancouver.

Atmosphere: While so many cafes are competing for the latest trendy decor, Artino's has opted for a homey and welcoming atmosphere. Golden tones, accented by bronze and copper, set the stage for the breakfast-nook style dining area, complete with a bread bar and help-yourself coffee. There are plenty of quaint seating arrangements and a couple of club chairs, if you plan to linger a while.

From the bakery: Breads and pastries are handcrafted and baked fresh every day. Thumbprint cookies, actually "palmprint" in size, come in a variety of flavors including peanut butter, apricot and strawberry. At just 50 cents apiece, it's cheap to fill a box to share with the family.

For lunch: The turkey-bacon-avocado sandwich at Artino's includes a generous slab of tomato, premium sliced turkey, avocado, mild provolone cheese and two decently meaty bacon slices along with virtually blemish-free lettuce. A smart amount of mayonnaise and mustard top the sandwich, thus avoiding messy excess. Minestrone soup includes hearty chunks of vegetables and meaty sausage and makes a good accompaniment for a lunch combo.

Breakfast served all day: Offerings from the breakfast menu include a custom-built breakfast panini and a yogurt parfait (low-fat natural yogurt with layers of homemade granola and whipped cream).

Illy vs. Starbucks: The imported Italian coffee Illy keeps showing up in discerning establishments. I have to admit, though I enjoy the on-every-corner convenience of Starbucks, Illy coffees are very smooth and have a richer flavor without imparting an over-roasted edge, which I occasionally experience with Starbucks' coffee.

Cost: Sandwiches are $5.50 to $6.75. Grilled paninis are $6.75 to $7.75. Soups are $2.25 for a cup and $3.75 for a bowl and include a side of bread. Salads range from $3.50 for pasta to $6.75 for chicken Caesar. Breakfast options range from $2 for a medium coffee and a side to $4.50 for toast, two eggs and two meats. Kids meals are $3.50 to $4.50.

Hours: 5:30 a.m. to 7 p.m. Mondays through Fridays, 7:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. on Saturdays, and 8:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. on Sundays.

Where: 19005 S.E. 34th St., Vancouver

Contact: 360-213-1010, www.artinosbakery.com