by Sam Soule for pdxguide.com
July 2006

Situated in the quaint strip of businesses at the intersection of NE 15th and Freemont, the County Cork Public House makes a good impression. And I'm not the only one feeling it.

"I'll tell you one thing," says a friend sitting across from me from one of the Cork's 'covered' booths, "this place has a far better beer selection than most of the pubs in Ireland."

Of course, I have to take his word for that. I've been in more than my share of Irish-style pubs — from Portland, ME to Portland, Jr. — but I've never been to the Emerald Isle. As it stands, my feeling is the best Irish Pubs in the States are dark literary affairs that hammer drinkers with a mallet force weight of history.

Or maybe I should say, "as is stood".

At the County Cork, one gets the impression that atmosphere is always light and relaxed, and that — I find — does not earn this neighborhood watering hole the usual black mark. Forgive me Mr. Joyce.

Maybe it's the summertime vibe combined with a personal sense of mellowing adulthood (long delayed, trust me), but the County Cork comes off as an oasis of reasonable and authentic cheer. I've done the hard time. Places like the County Cork are like part of my parole agreement.

So today a buddy and I and are sitting in a booth along the Cork's sidewalk side windows. It's a sunny Sunday afternoon and the place is open and airy. A mix of couples and families sit at tables sectioned by church pews (far more comfortable than I remember), along with a few lone pint masters sitting at the bar. The two serving lasses seem a bit crisp, perhaps mildly aloof. Their service is attentive but not achingly willing to please. No foul there. Familiarity is only earned with repeat visits.

"Make sure you mentioned that they have TWO cask-conditioned beers available," says my buddy, holding a richly dark pint of brew between us. "Serious beer drinkers are going to want to know that."

Serious food eaters are probably going to want to know that our fare from the kitchen was good. The fish and chips were fresh with a light with a clean-tasting batter. Portland offers lots of good fish and chips. The County Cork is offering some of the best.

My MOP Burger was OK. It arrived amply covered in mushrooms, onions and peppers. It was, however, over-cooked to my taste (I wasn't asked for my preference) and salty for the strength of the marinade. Steak fries remain a plus and the menu price points are forgiving.

Serious dart players are going to want to know that the Cork has two dart stalls off to the right of the bar. These are real dart boards, complete with shutters.

Subsequent evening visits have found the Cork to be a great place for lively jazz (Thursdays) and Irish music (Fridays) with folkish-like bands setting up on the corner stage on other days of the week as well.

Some sidewalk seating is available.

Be advised that the Cork shutters early. Food is only available until 10pm(ish) and the bar closes at 11.

The opinions expressed within are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect those of pdxguide.com or The Columbian Publishing Co.