Billy Reed's Restaurant and Bar

By Sam Dodge Soule, pdxguide.com

Billy Reed's Restaurant & Bar 2808 NE Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd. Portland, OR 503-493-8127 www.billyreeds.com

Billy Reed's Restaurant and Bar is many things: down home eatery with an upscale twist; classy sports lounge situated a quick quarter mile from the Rose Garden; home to a simmering scene of live blues and jazz.

A mile from Portland's city center, Billy Reed's is actually just one large chunk of the milestone-in-"multi-use"-complex built on the site of the historic Standard Dairy Building. It is a project that, in its entirety, encompasses an impressive 66,500 square of residential and commercial space. A decade in the planning, the Standard Dairy building was distinguished with the Govenor's Livability Award upon opening in April of 2000.

Cast in such a glaring "density-friendly" light, it comes as no surprise that the linchpin dining establishment of such a progressive undertaking as the new Standard Dairy makes every attempt to be as many things to as many people it can be. If Billy Reed's strives to be anything, it is accommodating.

And though expansive Billy Reed's has had problems developing staffing patterns able to meet the far-reaching goals of the services it attempts to provide, the restaurant has still succeeded in becoming a popular drink-and-eat establishment that embraces both families out and singles on the make with rustic and good-humored warmth.

Inside, rough-hewn broad beam construction, a granite bar, and an occasional exposed patch of worn cement nicely serve to off-set sleek hanging lights and playful wall murals depicting the epic story of "Billy Reed's Through Time." High-backed wood booths and rambling tables perpetuate a sense of frontier nostalgia, while an ever-changing display of locally produced art hangs in the far back room, site of many special functions.

The restaurant also offers additional event space in the second story Sky Room, a street-side patio outfitted with heat lamps, and the "Billy Bus," a restaurant operated shuttle service that can be reserved for the transportation of a small parties. Until recently, the fully stocked bar offered three free-use computers hooked up with high speed connections to the Internet. Unfortunately, an accident during the renovation of the back game room, which now houses a number of video games, pinball machines and pool tables, has meant the cessation of the bar's cyber provisions.

Billy Reed's is also an entertainment showcase, delivering free rhythm and blues six nights a week in its intimate performance annex. The rare bored face at the bar is always a target for talented sleight-of-hand displays courtesy of the house magician.

For all that Billy Reed's offers, nothing can replace reliably good food. The restaurant fare at Billy Reeds is reasonably priced, sturdy Americana defined by excellent meat entrees, consistently prepared, while still adequately addressing vegetarian dietary restrictions. Both the Baby Backed Ribs and Soy Chicken and Biscuits have proven to be equally soul satisfying. The recently introduced weekend breakfast menu is appreciated, but Billy Reed's strength remains with its dinners. A popular bar attraction is the Happy Hour and light menu featuring tasty munchies available for $2.95 ($6.95 all other times). Families are particularly thankful Billy Reed's "Kid's Night" on Tuesdays when children eat dinner free.

The real success of Billy Reed's, however, is measured in how well it has been received by the ethnically diverse population of Northeast Portland. This is not the kind of place that feels like some upstart business attempting to cash in on an up-and-coming development scene. It is not a cultural invader. Billy Reed's is part of the neighborhood.

The opinions expressed within are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect those of pdxguide.com or The Columbian Publishing Co.